Raleigh Pro Build Mavic A119 With Shimano Deore Hub Wheel

Rim width

While the diameter of most hybrid bike wheels is the same as road bike wheels the rim will be wider. This is because most hybrid bikes use wider tyres for a more comfortable ride, and a wider tyre requires a wider rim. The general rule is that a tyre should be 1½ to 2 times wider than the wheel rim for optimal performance.

A wheel that has a different rim width to its replacement will fit on your bike, but this may restrict the tyre width that you are able to use. Unless you want to change the ride characteristics of your bike it’s best to get a replacement wheel with the same or similar width to the existing wheel.

On the sidewall you'll see a combination of digits such as:

700 x 32c (road/hybrid) or 27.5 x 2.1 (mountain bike wheel)

This is the traditional size and it’s the first figure that shows the diameter of the wheel or the wheel size.

Sometimes tyres are shown with an ETRTO sizing such as

 32-622 – here it’s the second number that shows the wheel size. Here 622 is actually 700c

Freehub or Freewheel?

The rear wheel of your hybrid bike will have a sprocket or sprockets that the chain runs on.

If your bike has 7-speeds or less then you will need a screw on type hub for fitting the freewheel with sprockets.

If your bike has 8 speeds or more then you’ll need a rear wheel with a freehub. Most hybrid bikes have a standard Shimano compatible micro spline freehub. However bikes with an 11 speed SRAM drivetrain require an XD type free hub.

Can I fit a road bike or MTB wheel on my hybrid?

If your hybrid bike has 700c wheels then a road bike wheel will also fit as long as the brake and axle types are the same. The thing to look out for is the rim width. Most road bikes have narrower tyres than hybrids so the rims tend to be narrower. If you want to use wide hybrid bike tyres than make sure that the rim width is not less than half the tyre width.

Similarly, if your hybrid has 26”, 27.5” or 29” wheels then you can use an MTB wheel as long as the diameter, hub tyre and brake type are the same. Rim width is less likely to be a problem as mountain bikes have wide rims. Just make sure that your tyre is a little wider than the rim itself.

Bolt On – an axle that is incorporated into the hub with nuts on the end. Designed to work with traditional 9mm or 10mm dropouts. AKA nutted axle.

Bolt Though Axle – an axle that goes through the hub body and fixes to the fork or frame of you bike. Usually 12mm 15mm or 20mm.

Brake type – wwheels are designed to work with specific brake types; disc or rim. Disc brake wheels will either have a 6 bolt or a centre lock fitting.

Clincher – most common type of rim on all bikes works with tyres that have a bead. Tubular tyres on road bikes are different.

Eyelet - A fitting in the rim that holds the nipple in place.

Freehub – The freehub allows the rider to stop pedalling whilst the bike is still moving forward. The rear cassette is attached to the freehub body - 7 speed and above.

Freewheel – an early version of the freehub where the freewheeling mechanism is attached to the sprockets rather than the wheel hub – 5, 6 & 7 speed.

Hub - The centrepiece of the wheel, from which the spokes branch out to the rim. Rotates around the axle, which is an external component attached to the fork or frame.

Hub flange - The collar of the hub that the spokes attach to.

Lacing - The pattern in which the spokes are threaded when building a wheel. The exact same wheel threaded in a different pattern can produce a completely different ride character.

Nipple – The small component that the spokes screw into at the rim.

Rim - The outermost component in a wheel. The bit the tyre sits on.

Rim tape - tape that covers the nipples inside the rim to protect the inner tube – see also Tubeless rim tape below.

Spoke - The rods connecting hub to rim. J-Bend spokes are most common – they are identified by the bend at the hub end, and thread into the nipple at the rim. Straight-pull spokes have no bend and, as they are often proprietary to the wheel they are made for, are less readily available in bike shops.

Tubeless – Technology that allows does away with the inner tube

Tubeless rim tape – Rim tape that makes an air tight seal around the rim of tubeless compatible wheels

Tubeless Sealant – latex based liquid that you put inside tubeless tyres to get a good airtight seal. Tubeless sealant will self-repair small punctures.

True - A straight wheel is called ‘true’. If it gets a wobble, usually caused by the spokes unequally going out of tension, it is out of true.

Valves – The port of the bike that is used to inflate and deflate the tyre. There are two types of valve for bikes. Schrader valves are the same as those on car tyres while Presta valves are narrower bike specific valves designed for high air pressures. Valves are attached to the rim in tubeless set ups or included with the inner tube on traditional wheel setups.

QR – Quick release. Designed to work with traditional 9mm or 10mm dropouts. A quick release skewer fits through the wheel and allows you to quickly change the wheel.

Thru axle / TA – See Bolt Through Axle above.

Wheelset – both the front and the rear wheels are included in the wheelset